Winter preparations in the garden also include making the roses winterproof. There is a lot of uncertainty: Should the roses be cut again? Does fertilizer harm in autumn? And how do you pile up a trunk? We clarify.
Roses are very susceptible to fungus, bacteria, or disease. In addition to protection against frost, the focus is therefore also on ensuring that the rose survives the winter without diseases. When cutting and fertilizing, keep in mind the following principle: less is more.
The best time to winterize roses is at the end of October at the earliest, better in November.
- Do not fertilize: Roses do not need a winter supply of fertilizer, on the contrary: If the plants are fertilized too late in the year, the roses will sprout and bloom again, but the shoots are not winter-proof and so represent a weak point for the rose. In July at the latest You fertilize the last time. Tip: Some rose friends swear by Patentkali, which is said to strengthen the plant fibers and make them more resistant.
- Cut sparingly: The rose cut in autumn should be done after the last blossom and under no circumstances shortly before the first frosty nights. Only cut the roses sparingly in autumn, as freshly cut roses are more sensitive to frost and more easily damaged. In autumn, only damaged shoots are removed to prevent diseases, fungi and bacteria from growing.
This is how the autumn cut works for roses
- If two shoots are touching, remove one – otherwise the shoot can be damaged by friction at the contact point, and pathogens can penetrate.
- Cut all shoots to about the same height. Lower cut shoots act like a leak that allows the rose to bleed and lose so much sap.
- Remove all dead wood and the remaining leaves on the bush. Also collect the leaves that have fallen to the ground. This prevents the spread of diseases.
Important: Do not prune roses too much in autumn and leave at least 2/3 of the shoots. The best time for a topiary is spring. You can orientate yourself on the forsythia: As soon as it blooms, you can start cutting the roses.
- Pile up the trunk: pile up the trunk or shrub about 10 to 20 centimeters high with a mixture of topsoil and leaf compost. Do not use peat or bark mulch. Then cover the mixture with leaves, straw, moss or brushwood.
- When piling up, the rootstock and especially the grafting point are protected from frost. However, this is significantly higher for tree roses and is located at the transition from the trunk to the crown. Wrap the grafting point of tree roses well with breathable material. The place should be protected, but not mold.
- Frost protection for roses: The combination of winter sun during the day and frost at night is particularly dangerous for roses in winter. Therefore, the crowns of the roses must also be protected, otherwise the shoots will be damaged by dry winds and cold temperatures. To do this, simply wrap wide strips of jute around the entire plant or put a jute sack over the crown. Particularly decorative protective covers for roses are offered in specialist shops.
- Alternatively, you can wrap or stick dense branches of conifers around the shrub, so that the plant is protected. You can also stick small twigs in the crown, especially with tree roses.
Hibernate potted roses
- When purchasing, make sure that the flower pot is made of frost-proof material.
- Place the flower pot on a thick wooden board or a piece of styrofoam. This insulation prevents the root ball from freezing from below.
- Wrap the flower pot thickly with jute cloth. In this way you create additional frost protection for the root ball.
- Pile up the trunk and protect the grafting point of trunk roses with a jute ribbon.
- Protect the crown with brushwood, jute cloth or a jute sack.
So protected, your roses are well prepared for the winter.